* Don't fuck with the stove temperature, just let it ride. Things to do differently in this batch, copied from the notes on batch #18. Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 90.0 mins)
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Sierra nevada pale ale clone beersmith full#
Here's my recipe, followed by the original 6 gallon recipe.Įquipment: Brew Pot, Full Boil All Grain (5 Gallon)Ĭentennial - Aroma Steep 30.0 minĬalifornia Ale (White Labs #WLP001) I also dry hopped even though the recipe didn't call for it. I ended up getting 78% extract efficiency and 74% brewhouse efficiency after losses to flameout hops. I've found that when bottle conditioning, the carbonation I get from a calculation for 2.3 volumes is different than one would expect from kegging to the same CO2 level, so I should aim for lower carbonation rather than higher.Īs for the recipe itself, I'm using JZ's American Pale Ale recipe from The Jamil Show American Pale Ale episode. I will not go over 2.3 volumes unless the style demands it (Hefeweizens or Belgians, for example). Let it sit for a week on the gelatin and gently rack off for bottling.įinally, I'm setting 2.3 volumes of CO2 as my standard. DO NOT BOIL. Pour it into secondary (make sure the gelatin is at least 100 F at this time, don't let it cool more than that) and rack your beer on top of it. Heat it slowly until nice and evenly mixed and at around 150 - 170 F. To use gelatin, combine a half cup of distilled or RO, chlorine-free water with about 1/4 - 1/2 TSP (that's teaspoon) for a 3 gallon batch, or 1/2 to 1 TSP for a 5-6 gallon batch. I hope that the addition of gelatin finings will speed that up. Currently, it takes 2-3 weeks in the refrigerator to get a halfway clear beer. Next, I'll be adding gelatin to the secondary to help drop out yeast. No exceptions - I don't want differences in mineral additions between batches to confuse my results. Lighter or maltier beers (low IBUs and little to no late hopping) will get a simple 4 grams of calcium chloride in the mash. The calcium chloride in the mash is to get at least 50 ppm of calcium to aid in conversion, while the gypsum is there for flavor in hop forward beers. Hoppy beers get 3 grams of calcium chloride in the mash and 3 grams of gypsum in the boil. I'm also standardizing my mineral additions. I don't want to buy a pH meter or add acid or acid malt to my mash, I just want it to work, and that's what this is supposed to do.
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I never picked it up because it seemed too expensive, but when you do the math it turns out to cost about 25 cents per batch. I've also picked up some 5.2 pH Stabilizer from Five Star. Compare this to the 90+ efficiency double batch sparge BIAB that I've been using, but I feel like has been giving me slightly grainy or astringent flavors in some of my beers (not all, just some). I'm switching to a single batch sparge BIAB, which should get me mid to upper 70s efficiency.
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Thus the need for a simple beer, where I can focus wholly on my process. Since I've been having some process issues and have been worried that my efficiency is too high, I'm changing things up. I've made three IPAs and a load of other stuff, but not one good old fashioned Pale Ale. You know what I haven't made yet? An APA.